The wool flocked panel.
A wool-flocked panel provides a compressible, shape-modifiable interface between the tree and the horse. Its function is to fine-tune contact and load distribution within the limits set by the tree, not to correct fundamental mismatches. Wool can be adjusted in small, targeted amounts to balance pressure, accommodate minor asymmetries, or refine stability as the horse changes over time. These adjustments are subtle and incremental; flocking can improve an already appropriate tree, but it cannot make an inappropriate one fit.
You can clearly see the asymmetry and and lumps in the right panel. It made the saddle rock and caused pressure points.
Why take off the panel ?
You take off the panel for two different reasons.
First: sometimes it is simply not possible or way too much effort to do the reflock with the panel attached to the tree. The slots may be located half way under the tree; the panel might get in the way.
Second: You want to check the tree for damages or want to widen the gullet bar.
If you sell a saddle it is crucial to make sure the tree is intact. Its also a potential liability issue.
Knowing how to do this will set you apart from brand reps and give you a more sustainable source of income.
Can you reflock the panel while it is attached to the tree?
Yes you can. The benefit of this is that the leather will have the right ‘ tension’ and hold it. You can take the panel off, or just remove the stitches in either the front OR the back and check the tree, empty the panel out, stitch it back in place and THEN reflock.
In my experience it is best to decide on an individual basis. I always take off Prestige panels and Sommer. If I have no reason the check the tree I reflock Passier and Euroriding with the panel attached.
Older Kieffer are best opened in the front. Older Stübben in the back. You will find your own workflow but it is crucial to master the flocking and the stitching.
Take a panel off, reflock and stitch it back on. Prestige.
Begin with taking out the screws in the front and in the back of the panel. If the scews are old and worn- replace them. But keep the little felt washers. Make sure you have the right screw driver or bit. Otherwise you can easily destroy the screws head.
If you are dealing with an older saddle and the screws really won’t come off : remove the felt washer and turn the head with pliers.
Carefully remove the panel from the tree.
Bend it outwards till you can see the thread holding it in place. Each end is located in a specific location. You might want to take a picture to note their locations.
Completely empty out the panel. remove every bit of the old flocking material. You can use the special pliers, or a fish hook remover or a special iron with a hook. I personally alternate the fish hook remover and the pliers as I find it less tiring for the hands when you do this a lot. If there is any defect on the panel- now it the time to repair it.
Take the wool and make it into a strand. In the beginning you should use less material and a thinner strand. Over time you will learn to match the amount of wool with the volume of the panel. Do not shove in a big lump at once.
Different brands have use different leathers for the panels. You will find that each brand has and ideal amount of wool to go inside.
Think of the flocking process like building a wall. You can not put bricks in once the wall is ready. Start with the part of the panel you won’t be able to reach once its back on the tree. Build from there. Fill the front and the back- the middle part last. Keep it homogenous, flat and consistent without any lumps. If you are uncertain stick the panel back on the tree and see what it looks like under tension . The front and the rear should hold the tree in an stable but not stiff way. The density should be the one of muscle. Never should a panel be harder than the horse’s back. Make sure there is no wool where the screw will be- that’s a nightmare to remove.
Over flocking will lead to rocking or pressure points. To little material will make the saddle slide or touch the withers under weight. There is no general ‘right’ amount of wool. Each brand has its own ideal volume. Rule of thumb :The panel should have the feel of a well trained muscle.
Don’t worry if you don’t get it right the first time. With some practice you will perfect this.
When you are satisfied with the shape and volume of the panel you put it back on. Begin in the front and put the screw back in. Do not forget the washer. For sewing it back on you use a curved needle. There are different sizes, I prefer a bigger sturdier needle, but smaller one will do. Start by cutting the thread to four times the length of the stitch line, thread the needle and make a knot and a bow. Form a litte ‘ anchor’. You can melt the ends with a lighter.
If the needle doesn’t go through use and awl. Do not pull on the needle with pliers. the needle will break and and up in your palm. Hand away from tool, always.
Stitch back in direction of the pommel. If you are uncertain where the last stitch is look at the picture you have taken. You can now pull it tight. Put the screw back in before you make a knot and multiple bows.
You can now pull it tight. Put the screw back in before you make a knot and multiple bows. Cut the thread and hide the end under the panel.
Cut the strings but leave enough to melt them to another little ‘ anchor’.
Melt the ends oft he threads together. Don’t worry – the saddle will not go up in flames. Still it is better to practise this a couple times with the thread you are using.
Notice the increased volume of the reflocked right panel. It will settle a bit after a couple of rides. Brands with very “cushy” panels like sommer might need a bit of refill after a while.
Flocking Materials.
Wool : the traditional material for the English saddle. Easy to work with. Nice to touch. But susceptible to the horse’s sweat. The flocking does not last very long and the material gets hard and forms little knots.
Wool with Silicone or Polyester is available and offers more resistance to sweat while being easy to work with.
Polyester : my favorite Material.
Polyester plus Silicone 70/30 : favored by many saddlers and fitters.
Kapok: a plant fiber – very resistant to water. Easy to work with. But a big downside. Dust. Dust that will be everywhere. We stopped using it.
All of the above are suitable materials. We used each material over a longer period of time. In my opinion it is best to settle for one or two of them and make the effort to really master them instead of buying more and more material. The polyester- silicone mix is a good start, as it is a little forgiving and not bouncy. (I personally do not like the touch, but that’s not relevant).
Steer clear of material that come in little balls or has higher silicone percentage. It will bounce, shift and be a mess.
Pure wool.
Wool with silicone.
Kapok.
Polyester wool with 30 percent silicone. Notice how it bounces back.
Stitching a traditional panel back on.
Stitching a traditional panel back on is more demanding than working with the modern one with screws. It’s best to practice with those first. Dealing with the traditional panels is at first a little annoying – but you will get good at this over time. If you have taken the wohle panel off: start with the front. Put the gullet bar back in place. Buy a pack of saddler needles, do not make a knot behind the needle’s eye. Do not use thick thread, no doubling the thread , either.
Clean the leather and use leather care. It will soften the panel and make the work easier.
This is the undersite of the pommel.
Cut the thread that hold the panel in place.
Remove all the stitches. Check if the tree is intact and symmetrical. Now that the panel is loose, remove the old flocking.
Use and awl to pierce through the holes. In the direction you will use the needle.
As there is no screw involved here : make the knot big. Better safe than sorry. From an ‘ anchor’ and hide it between panel and seat leather. Start with a simple backstitch then continue with a normal running stitch.
When you are done with the flocking but the girth straps back in place. Some girth straps run through the panel. They go in first, then the gullet bar bar it its place. A tool for pulling the straps is listed in the tool section.
Stitch from both sides. Single thread for each side. When you have reached the middle pull the panel in place. Make a knot, then bows, cut and hide it under the pommel leather.
As for stitching the panel on the cantle: apply the same method through out. Anchor – stitch- pull- anchor. Do not pull on the seat leather as it is more delicate than the panel. Do not try to stitch on a fully flocked panel.
Anchor behind the flap.
Use a curved awl.
Stitch all the way around.
Be EXTREMELY careful when tightening. Do not pierce the thread.
If you have to cut in a panel because there is not slot: absolutely ALWAYS cut vertically. Never horizontally. This will turn the panel into an exploded pillow.
Panel shapes
I find this wedge like shape most suitable for a horse with a flat rib cage. Not for round cob types. Notice how little contact it has with the horses back. Panels give in a litte und weight- still not ideal for this horse.
I find panels preferable that sit flat and even on the horse’s back. Prestige Paris and Velicea Diego as examples.
