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Become a Pro.

learn saddle fitting- build a career.

Tools you really need.

You do not need to invest heavily in tools or buy a larger number of things. Neither the price nor the brand is really important. I had expensive tools break on me after a week – and tools from the euro store that are still in use after years. Most of the tools are mande in China or Pakistan anyway. This list will give you a starting point and starting is what matters.

These are flocking irons that I made for me and my co-workers from ling screwdrivers , bought from the 1-Euro-Store. We still use them. I have bought flocking irons from the saddler supply store- the handle came off within a week. You can cut the long screwdrivers  and bend them in a vice.

Here you can see why they are curved. They have to match the shape of the panel.

Electric screwdriver, long nose pliers to pull out wool, and different flocking irons.

This tool is used to pull the girth strap trough the panel after reflock. You can improvise it – but it is faster and less annoying to use this special tool.

This is used to remove staples. You will find more staples in saddles then you ever expected.

Screws: the more the merrier. The screws in the picture are used to fixate the girth on the tree. You will need them when you change the girth strap’s position.

Needles : Saddler needles and curved needles in different sizes. Buy a bunch of them, they break.

Thread: waxed thread is available in different colors and sizes. Black is the obvious choice, but having a spool of cream or white can come in handy.

Awls: you will need a curved and a straight one.

Measuring tape for the girth length. Claps and pliers  for multiple purposes. The hole puncher is need  when you replace girth straps.

Later you should also get a dremel because some trees like Prestige are too hard for an electric screwdriver to get holes in them.

The saddle press.

A saddle press is a construction that allows you to push the saddle tree against an obstacle till the gullet bar gives in. There are different models available at different price points but the principle is the same. Hydraulic press and counterpart. The hydraulic press is usually a carjack. The weak point in each and every saddle press is the widening part. The saddle is upside down, resting on the pommel and can easily slip sideways or slide off. It is crucial to take of the panel when widening, even when this is advertised differently. The saddle will slide to one side and you end up with a twisted tree.

The price.

The investment in a saddle press can be a major roadblock when you are starting your business. The press in the first image is made by Sommer and retails around 3000 Euros. It is very well made; How ever this is a bigger sum of money and you still want to invest in saddles, advertising, maybe the car needs some repairs… so lets look into other options.

There is the Saddle Devil and the Zaldi press, practically the same thing.

I have my own press made which works the same way. I will provide the measurements so you can get yourself a copy from a local metal worker. I have paid 300 Euro for each press.  We have three of these presses in use as it it much lighter and easier to handle. We also have the Sommer press and the Swiss Oehrli press.

The Sommer press. The car jack is in the back.

The presses we got made.

Handling the saddle press.

Place the saddle in the press. Make sure it sits even and symmetrical. Place a patch of leather or felt between saddle and metal. Pump the car jack till you feel a ‘ pull’. Check the symmetry once more before pumping again. Hold the saddle steady. You will find that plastic tree give in way easier than wooden spring trees. If a wood or composite tree makes weird noises: stop pumping. Quality spring trees cam be widened and made narrower by roughly 2 centimeters. It largely depends on the quality of the tree you are dealing with. Handle trees from South America with extra care or you have pile of splinters.

Never ever use the press on french trees. These are not made to be altered. If in doubt call the manufacturer.

You will get a feeling for this- its not very complicated. Experiment with as many trees as you can get. Take it easy with the Stübben – work the Passier. Do not press saddles that have an interchangeable gullet system like Bates or Kent and Masters or Ikonic.

Measure the gullet bar before and after pressing- some tend to get back to their old width once the pressure is removed.

Due to the variety of trees it is impossible to simply give a number of pumps that equals centimeter.

One more thing…

Before saddle presses were available the old generation of saddlers used a vice to widen trees. If handled correctly a vice produces very good and precise results. More precise than a press. If handled incorrectly you will crush the tree, so practice this first.

I was hesitant to show this but i trust you don’t try this for the first time on your clients 4000 dollar saddle. For better visibility I use a naked Wintec tree in the video. The vice would need padding on the jaw that holds the pommel- otherwise you destroy the leather. The jaws must be 15 cm or it will not work. Obviously the vice can only be used on the bare gullet bar- not the panel.

Making your own press.

We have used this kind of press for years and  I have had multiple copies made with this measurements. A local metalworker

can easily make you your own. I have paid around 300 Euros for each copy. Use leather or felt to protect the saddle from the ” horns”.

You can either use a 5 t or 3 t car jack- but you will have to stick with one or it will not fit.